Beauty Editor

SUMMER'S GOLDEN GLOW
THE RETURN OF CANDY-COLOURED LIPS
STRAIGHTEN UP
BACKSTAGE DIARIES

 Above: Featuring 2010 Miss Universe 4th runner-up Venus Raj

Below: Creative Directing, Make-up & Hairstyling work

GOLDEN GIRLS

By Mary Jane Agra

 

Kiss winter’s heavy layers goodbye sweet summer child. Spring-cleaning’s ticked off your to-do list, so by layers – we mean the ‘fuss’ in your makeup routine. This season favors a soft approach to beauty over bold makeup.

 

Lighten up your beauty routine, and ditch the heavy liners and lashes - or simply tuck them in your drawer for another day. This season is all about achieving a healthy and all-natural glow that only takes a few minutes to pull off.

 

Summer gets golden with sun-kissed skin, flushed cheeks, and warm tones. This skincare season, a radiant complexion is right on trend! “It‘s more about transparency and the resurfacing of the face,” says Terry Barber, MAC’s Director of Artistry. “There's a return to femininity - health and sportiness were the two words that artists used everywhere backstage," as he recalls from shows in New York, Paris, Milan, and London.
 

In New York, the models at Michael Kors exuded an all-American girl persona with their bronzed and just-back-from-the-beach glow. "The girl looks very healthy, alive, and animated because Michael really likes that kind of energy,” says Makeup Artist Dick Page.  He drew attention to the tone and structure of the models’ faces by dusting bronzer along the hairline from temple to temple for warmth and definition, and then accenting the cheeks with a slightly rosier shade. Lastly, he dabbed on MAC’s Eye Shadow in Brule on fair-skinned models and a brown-gold hue for deeper complexions to camouflage any dark circles around the eyes.

 

Meanwhile on the runways in Paris at Isabel Marant, eyes were on the uncomplicated French Chic, the very embodiment of Parisian cool who the designer speaks of as “the girl who has come back from vacation and has highlights…The model, who has frequently been spotted at work and play since completing her photography studies.’” Makeup Artist Christelle Cocquet took to task in creating an effortless glow - by concentrated layering of MAC’s copper-tinged Lustre Drops and a highlighter. She then rendered complexions luminous with a sheered-out foundation and a light sweep of neutral blush along the apples of the cheeks.

 

In Milan, the epitome of a Sicilian woman, inspired by Sicily’s ancient Greek history and Sophia Loren’s boundless sensuality, graced the runways at Dolce & Gabbana. "Even though it's soft, romantic, and cherubic, it's still Sophia Loren - but this time she's in a Greek theater and it's sunny and hot," said Makeup Artist Pat McGrath of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's eternal muse. For an instant glow, McGrath applied a shade of foundation warmer than the model's skin tone, and then dusted blush powder to the cheeks, chin and forehead. For a more golden effect, she applied a blend of eye shadow in yellow and rose-gold hues across the lids, with a deeper beige blended into the crease and rimmed along the lower lash lines. Then, she drew a tiny wing on the outer corners of the eye for the ultimate Sophia Loren look.

 

Meanwhile, the influence of South America, namely Peru, and Southern Italy were explored on the runways of Alberta Ferretti with folkloric notes echoing across the collection. Makeup Artist Lucia Pieroni achieved both a whimsical and fresh beauty look by applying MAC Pro Paint Pot in Groundwork across the nose, forehead, cheeks and chin, and then dusting Casual Cheek and Lip Colour in Have A Lovely Day! onto cheeks for a rosy flush.

 

 

 

 

 

 

GOLDEN GLAMOUR

By Mary Jane Agra

 

Add sophistication to your eyes with the ultimate metallic. At Donna Karan, it was all about that seventies-style glow with sun-kissed beauties channeling glamorous boho-chic - as inspired by original supermodels Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton. Face painter Charlotte Tilbury brightens up the eyes with a wash of bronze-gold cream shadow. For a subtle sweep, opt for a lighter golden shade and blend it outwards and towards the eyebrows.

 

 At Jason Wu, Lancôme makeup artist Diana Kendal created a softer, half-moon-shaped cat eye and accented the eyes with warm rose gold glitter for a metallic effect. At Aigner, lips were given a regal shimmer with a jewel-toned lipstick. Whether alone or layered on top of a matte shade, gold is a sure way to add dimension and shine the spotlight on your lips. 

 

 

Aigner Spring/Summer 2014

Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2014

 

LOUD MOUTH

By Mary Jane Agra
 

Throwback to 1950’s summer and add a pop of colour to your beauty arsenal with candy-colored lip shades. Barefaced beauties with ultra-bright pouts give au naturel a modern interpretation. Candy pink, lilac, and orange are the key colour players this season.

 

COTTON CANDY

It’s a Barbie world with Irving Penn-inspired pouts in pastel pink at Prabal Gurung. Doll up your pout by first slightly drawing outside of the mouth with a lip pencil. If you’re a makeup master like Charlotte Tilbury, fill it in with a custom-blend shade of Pepto Pink. If not, join the party and take your pick of these cotton-candy lip shades.

 

LILAC INSPIRATION

Rumor has it that purple dethroned pink. All eyes were on the neon lilac-painted lips at Prabal Gurung and Peter Pilotto. At Prabal Gurung, Charlotte Tilbury used a custom-blended shade of acidic lilac using various combinations of MAC’s Lipmix collection. A trick to pull this off is to first contour the lips with a lip pencil for richer colour coverage and to avoid feathering.

 

ORANGE YOU GLAD

For lips that speak louder than words, freshen up with tangerine orange. Its no surprise practically every top designer favored this caution-cone-colour for this season’s beauty looks. This zesty hue complements all skin tones and hair colours. Rich, burnt orange hues suit darker complexions, while softer orange colours with peach undertones flatter lighter complexions. Plus, orange lips add spice to a muted ensemble. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take it up a NOTCH!

 

With a new approach to colour, why not experiment with texture while you’re at it! Look natural and effortless with bold matte lips. Its high pigment and long-lasting colour tops the list of designer favourites on the Spring/Summer 2014 runways.

Think matte is underwhelming in the moisture department? Keep your lips hydrated and fake the plumping effect with a creamy texture, or go glossy for a shiny glass-like effect on the lips.

Take center stage and create the illusion of fuller, luscious lips with a shimmery finish. Plus, glimmering lips are most flattering underneath artificial light.

 

 

 

 

 

SIDE SWEPT

At Ralph Lauren, Guido Palau brought Upper East Side to the runways with a glossy and slightly off-center parting. Meanwhile at Helmut Lang, Paul Hanlon kept the hair less street and more groomed with a sleek side parting. For more polish, Hanlon neatly tucked hair behind the ears and secured it with a loose and low ponytail. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

POKER STRAIGHT

By Mary Jane Agra
 

Super silky straight hair is back in vogue! Summer curls and bouncy waves are lost in the shuffle of trends. This season, super-straight strands can stand alone as a statement piece.

 

CENTER OF ATTENTION

At Chloé, James Pecis’ straightened hair and preppy centered partings gave us a clear picture of the “intellectual Chloé girl with healthy, expensive hair." The hairstylist flat-ironed hair and drew a hard, clean line right in the middle of the head using the pointed tip of a rattail comb and then held it in place with hairspray. At Max Mara, it’s a double take on precise center partings except Luigi Murenu flattened down the hair and tucked it behind the models’ ears for a slicker modern look. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CROWNED GLORY

The creative genius in Eugene Souleiman’s hair creations gave the understated hair trend a whole tier of sophistication – with the meticulous use of graphic accessories. At Donna Karan, Souleiman devised a section from the forehead to the crown and snapped a metal barrette into place. Then, he smoothed the hair against the head with a small bristle brush and blow dryer, whilst dousing layers with hair spray. At Elie Saab, the perfectly streamlined hair was held in place by a gold hairband that was woven over and under the hair. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below: Featuring face of GIVENCHY, Paolo Roldan

Featuring GIVENCHY male supermodel
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Screen Shot 2013-11-06 at 4.24.00 PM.png

Wild CAT

By Mary Jane Agra

 

Take your feline appeal up a notch! Bright colored liners make for a foxy glam cate eye in a few simple swipes. If subdued, they make for staple day looks, colored creases give just the right pick-me-up for a night out in town.  

 

As winter’s dark days loom around the corner, designers as well as makeup and nail artists alike are rolling out vibrant neon hues to rebel against this season’s predictable moody shades. The infamous cat-eye has been a steady fixture since its claim to fame in the '60s, and is continuously being given a makeover this season by adding a pop of color. 

 

Dior makeup artist, Pat McGrath, ditched the traditional black liner and topped off runway looks with a futuristic silver upsweep - infusing some vibrancy and a little flirty appeal to the collection's structured feminity. At Karen Walker, an even bigger rebellion took place as graphic eyeliners in bright orange and striking green hues made for over-the-top beauty looks. Stila’s lead makeup artist, Adrien Pinault, was singin’ the blues as he drew the winged liner with a vivid matte cobalt color at Honor. Jason Wu followed suit with a powerful blue-violet shade inspired by a violet accordion silk dress that closed the designer’s fall runway show. The cat-eye at Michael Kors was given a little twist - a subtle shimmer on the inner part of the eyes and outer corners accented with a black shadow. Finally at Badgely Mischka, technicolor wings and a hue of baby blue were not for the understated. Fall beauty was a warm display of color despite the cool, autumn chill.

 

 

CHANEL GLITTERS UP, and so should YOU!

By Mary Jane Agra

 

French fashion house Chanel sets the stage for what it truly means to be grandiose this season. This season, runway darlings were sparkling as they strut the largely monochromatic tweeds down the catwalk at Paris’s Grand Palais. The genius in Chanel’s former creative director of makeup, Peter Philips, was responsible for yet another original and innovative DIY crafty look. For a futuristic take on the traditional cat-eye, Philips glued pieces of silver sequins along the eyelids and upper lashes for a flickering effect - and no, we're not paying reference to the cameras here - it was simply eye makeup at its finest. And for the finishing touch - a long black line underneath the lower lash with Chanel's Le crayon Khôl eye liner.

Compared to Philip’s bejeweled eyebrows at Chanel last Fall, this year’s sparkled lids can easily transcend into a go-to glamorous look for a night-out. Don’t be intimidated by the sequins,think of them as just another pair of lashes to put on. Achieving the look is easier than it looks - witha  little glue, some shiny disks, and lots of commitment. 

 

1. First and foremost, get your sequins! Opt for circular and smaller-sized sequins, as these are easier to work with. You can find them at any craft store, makeup supply chain, or even the dollar store for a reasonable price.

2. Start with a natural base, then apply your usual makeup sans the eyeliner. keep it minimal and along the nude tones. 

3. With a pair of tweezers, dab some glue on a piece of sequin then slowly place it onto the upper eyelid. Repeat with the other pieces - starting from the inner lids continuing outwards until you've covered your designated area. Carefully glue the sparkles onto the lower lids following th shape of a liner. You have the option of drawing a line prior to prior to the sequin application to make the shape easier to follow. Use a cotton swab to aid in the application and to tidy up any unnecessary messes.

4. You can then decide how much thicker you want your sequined liner to be - it all depends on your comfort level. 

5. Last but not the least, to be the ultimate Chanel girl, apply a black liner along your lower lash line. This further open up the eyes and completed the look - and voilà! 

 

ROCK STEADY

By Mary Jane Agra

 

Earcuffs are no longer relics of the '90s. Designers like Jason Wu, Thakoon, and Rodarte are marking the resurgence of these jewelled extensions - from floral, whimsical, and structured, to Swarovski embedded and diamond studded designs. Makeup visionary, Peter Philips, perfected the look; he gave models at the Dries show artistically crafted ear gems, comprised of chunky rock crystals meticulously glued to the ear for a high-impact mosaic pattern. The surge has made its way into Hollywood too. Fashionistas like Lara Bingle, Kate Bosworth, and Diane Kruger were all spotted with ear bling, and we don't blame them, the fashion accessory brings maximal flair to minimal styling. Christmas is just around the corner. So while you're occupied with some holiday shopping, why not indulge yourself (your ears for that matter) with a different kind of ornamentation. 

PIXIE CUTS ARE IN
GET MOODY
SHARE YOUR SCENT

 A BOLD NEW 'DO

By Mary Jane Agra

 

There are no restrictions when it comes to a pixie hair cut. Designers play it up and even adorn the pixie with neat hair accessories as seen on the runways for Fall 2013. Whether you’re having a bad hair day or just want to experiment, the pixie is so low maintenance that it takes a second to get on trend. These designers sure get edgy!

 

Take your sexiness up a notch and make a strong statement like these confident muses. Long locks are no longer necessary to scream sexy. Our R&B darling, Beyonce, bids farewell to her trademark real long flowing tresses for a neat pixie crop with lightened ends. Hence, make way for the ‘Pixie Cut.’ This bold move stunned fans around the world, and is spawning trends like crazy. Audrey Hepburn in the 50s, Mia Farrow in the late 60s, Twiggy in the 70s, to Demi Moore in Ghost in 1990 altogether dazzled audiences with this androgynous look, and in this decade, the pixie is proving to be forever iconic. 

 

Afraid to get choppin’? Not to worry, the short 'do is as versatile as longer locks, minus the hassle of styling. A-listers have bravely submitted to scissors, and have given modern-day femininity an edge, inspiring women to opt for short without the fear of being labeled a ‘tomboy.’ In fact, the shorter the hair, the sassier and younger you look! 

 

Our favorite chameleon, Rihanna, embraces the nineties vibe as she dons a curly version. Miley Cyrus admits her punkish platinum haircut changed her life and is more confident than ever. And who can forget that moment when Anne Hathaway channeled punk on the red carpet with a striking blond quiff style at the 2013 Met Gala. But perhaps our short- hair superhero Academy Award-winner, Charlize Theron, who shaved her head for her role in Mad Max: Fury Road. She later debuted her edgy hairstyle at the red carpet, where she stunned audiences and peers alike, as Charlize often does.

 

 

 

BRUSH HOUR

By Mary Jane Agra

 

Sponge-tip applicators are a thing of past -  this season debuts new and improved diversity of brushes.  Top beauty brands, such as Japan’s Chikuhudo, France’s Raphaël, Makeup For Ever, and M.A.C., are changing the way we put on makeup - from silky synthetic brushes to natural hair tips, there's a brush for every crease and curve. When properly cared for, these makeup wonders last a lifetime - definitely worth the investment. 

FOUNDATION

M.A.C. 187 Duo Fiber Foundation Brush C$50.50

This large, flat-topped foundation brush with a natural/synthetic blend is essential for the precise and even application of powder, emollient or water-based foundation.

POWDER

DIOR Light Coverage Powder Brush C$68.75

The soft, round shape, and tapered, layered fibers in this high-quality, natural bristle brush gently hold powder and deliver the perfect amount to set for a translucent, velvety, yet non-powdery finish. Its elegant black wooden handle is crafted with the artisanal expertise and exceptional quality of Raphaël, a French maker of art brushes.

BRONZER

MARC JACOBS BEAUTY The Bronze - Bronzer Brush No. 12 C$94

The feather-soft, synthetic, and antibacterial bristles in this extra large, luxurious brush apply the bronzer for a perfectly blended sun-kissed glow.

CONCEALER

SEPHORA COLLECTION Pro Airbrush Concealer Brush #57 C$29

The short, synthetic bristles in this short, round brush precisely conceal dark circles, redness, and other imperfections with ease.

CONTOUR

SEPHORA COLLECTION Pro Angled Contour Brush #75 C$36

The slanted bristles in this angled, synthetic contour brush allow for the accurate placement of all types of formulas and provide expert definition. This multi-purpose brush can be used to effortlessly apply blush, bronzer, foundation, and concealer.    

BLUSH

NARS Yachiyo Kabuki C$50

The ultra-soft pen super goat hairs in InStyle’s 2013 ‘Best Blush Brush’ are exceptional in blending and diffusing pigments for superior cheekbone definition. Traditional Japanese beauty rituals inspire the tapered-dome head and hand-spun black wisteria handle.

SHIMMER

BOBBI BROWN Face Blender Brush C$55

This multi-purpose brush is ideal for dusting Shimmer Brick Compact on the cheekbones for a natural-looking, shimmery glow.

EYESHADOW

M.A.C. 275 Medium Angled Shading Brush C$30

The soft, smooth fibers in this full, angled brush are ideal for applying and blending eye shadows.

EYEBROW

ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS Mini Duo Angled/Spooley 7 C$23

This multi-lacquered wooden handle sports the most essential beauty tools for brows: an angle-cut sable brush to fill brows and a grooming spooley to brush brows into shape.

EYELINER

LANCÔME Dual End Smudger and Liner Brush C$25

Designed with two sides for portability and convenience: the sleek tip applies shadow and gel liner precisely and evenly to the perimeter of the eye, while the tapered, flat rounded side perfectly smudges shadow or eyeliner for a smoky softly lined look.

LIP

SHISEIDO Portable Lip Brush C$18

This travel-sized natural hair brush lines and colours lips with ease and precision.

BRUSH CLEANSER

BEAUTYBLENDER Solid Sponge Cleanser C$20

Formulated without parabens, sulfates, or phthalates, this solid form of the natural blendercleanser removes excess residue and germs from brushes for a clean makeup application.

 

 

 

PONYTAIL POWER
Filipiniana ~ Makeup Work
Filipiniana ~ Makeup Work
Filipiniana ~ Makeup Work

AU NATUREL WITH AN EDGE

By Mary Jane Agra

 

The concept of au naturel is at an all time high with every woman embracing this trend to achieve the illusion of a breathy skin and flawless complexion. But, are we getting bored of it? So to bring our enthusiasm up a notch, trendsetting makeup artists gives this no makeup look a little bit of an edge. Not to worry, the low-maintenance element to it is still intact!

Last season’s matte lips are replaced with petal and berry stains, as seen at Christian Dior, Marni, Derek Lam, Prada, and Vera Wang for Autumn/Winter 2013-14. And I say stained, not painted. Easy on the lipstick there! Let the color diffuse from the inside of the lips outwards by using a Q-tip to blur the line imperfectly.

Then, draw a thin black line along your top lashes to create a subtle and almost invisible definition of the eyes at the likes of Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang, Proenza, and Christopher Kane. Opt out of the sixties trend, the skinny black liner is in!

And by the way, skip the blush or use it very sparingly if you must, as particularly bare cheeks were spotted at Jonathan Saunders, Balmain, Alexander Wang, and Dolce and Gabbana.

Want to take it to the next level? Get the morning-after look by adding some grey shadow on the lower lash line. And don’t worry about retouching the mascara on your lower lashes. In fact, the smudgier, the better! 

 

HITCHCOCK HEROINE

By Mary Jane Agra

 

The mystery and glamour of the forties, fifties, and sixties dominate the runways of Carolina Herrara, Bottega Veneta, Oscar de la Renta to the ever-so-youthful Marc by Marc Jacobs for Autumn to Winter 2013-14. Thanks to the influence of the late iconic director Alfred Hitchcock, we now see the once dewy-skin lasses transform into Hitchcock Heroines. Following the likes of staple beauties Grace Kelly, and Tippi Hedren, these classic leading ladies are known for their utmost glamour and sophistication, characterized by their neutral-toned eye makeup, thin black eyeliner, glossy blood-red lips, flushed cheeks, and thicker arched eyebrows. Thus, fashion is even more infatuated with Hitchcock style femininity and takes this trend to a whole new level. And I say it’s about time you channel yours!

 

 Lips Get Moody

By Mary Jane Agra

 

The mood this season certainly carries an heir of mystery and a whole tier of sophistication with designers such as Phillip Lim drawing inspirations from the gritty streets of New York City, and Misha Nonoo reliving the Russian romanticism that captivated her during a trip to the Eurasion country. Dark, polished lips flooded the runways and set the tone for Fall beauty – deep and moody lip shades from jet black to oxblood.

 

 NAIL ART IN THE METROPOLIS

By Mary Jane Agra

 

The nail art seen on the runways of Milan, London, and New York puts a stamp on what it takes to be designer approved. From simple to complex, accessible to artistic, we’ve got the lowdown on nail trends to note this season.

 

TREND: NAKED NAILS

An ever-growing trend, mannequin nails, or pale nails were spotted on the Fall 2013 runways of Alexander Wang, Christian Dior, Vionnet, Lanvin, Acne, and Rochas to complement an ultra-chic and sophisticated collections.

 

 

TREND: BLACK or WHITE

A top trend contender for Fall, black matte nails were spotted at Misha Nonoo, Kenzo, and Kate Spade, while nails with sheer white polish were seen at Elie Kuame Couture of Paris.

 

TREND: RED and BURGUNDY

Get monochromatic with this season’s moody lips with dark nail lacquers. Burgundy vamped up the beaded pieces at Elie Saab, while cherry-red painted nails were omnipresent at Sonia Rykiel.

 

TREND: GEOMETIC NAIL ART

Naked nails with an edge! Metallic accents were added to the tips of nude nails at Titania Inglis.

 

TREND: MOON MANICURE

Exaggerated moon manicures starting were all the rage at  Threeasfour. Don’t be afraid to play with colors.

ANDROGYNOUS FRAGRANCES

By Mary Jane Agra

 

Gender-neutral fragrances are increasingly gaining mass appeal with just about every big perfume house giving it a go. Women, who are not super keen on ultra feminine scents opt for unisex versions – they’re crisp, clean, and economically beneficial since you can easily share them with your partner. Talk about convenience!

 

Calvin Klein’s CK One

This go-to sensual unisex fragrance since the 90’s carries on a citrus aroma that is very light and refreshing. Apply generously! 1.7oz – C$42 / 3.4oz – C$60

Diptyque’s Volutes Eau de Parfum

This spicy scent consists of blond, honeyed Egyptian tobacco and is known for its distinguished leathery note with a hint of lilac. 75ml C$144

Bamboo Harmony by Kilian

Smell white tea leaves with a touch of Bamboo spice and fresh notes of bergamot, neroli and bigarade orange. 50 ml - C$280

Illamasqua’s Freak Eau de Parfum

This exotic, rich, and provocative fragrance carries notes of Black Dayana, Opium, Belladonna, Poison Hemlock, Datura and Queen of the Night blossom, frankincense, Oud, and myrrh. 2.5oz – C$112

Jo Malone’s Grapefruit cologne

Still hung up on summer? This simple, crisp, and uplifting citrus cologne with notes of grapefruit and tangerine combined with vetiver and rosemary lingers beyond seasons. 100ml  -C$124

Tom Ford Black Orchid

This timeless and luxurious scent gives you a walk through sultry woods with rich fruit accords. 1.7oz - C$120 sephora.ca

Odin 01

This rich and exotic aroma carries rich notes of juniper berries and cedar leaves from the Himalayas. 100ml - C$125

 

PONYTAIL POWER

By Mary Jane Agra

 

As we part ways with last season’s messy manes, the slicked back super-straight polished ponytail is back in vogue. Don’t cry out boring just yet as this trend is far from it! Perfect for the power woman-on-the-go, it’s quick and proven to be the easiest way to wear your hair up. With a strong hair elastic, a few bobby pins, a fine tooth tail comb, and your favorite hair product - you’re well on your way! Or better yet, get on the wet look trend and grab a spray of water to aid you in perfecting your ponytail, and soon you’ll be calling it your new best friend.

 

Diagonal Low Ponytail

Give the classic low ponytail a twist with a diagonal parting on top, as seen at Richard Chai Love, styled by Frank Rizzieri and Kevin Ryan for Aveda.

 

Minimalist Triple Ponytail with Duct Tape

Alexander Wang is a genius for starting the trend of using a strip of duct tape as a hair accessory. Soon after, this wonder tape was spotted on a minimalist triple ponytail at the Independent Runway show during the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival.

 

Wet Look Low Ponytail

With the wet look making a splash on runways throughout the world, go ahead and spritz some water before you secure your hair into a low and tight ponytail. After all, water makes the job easier and gives your hair that ultimate shine. 

 

 

 

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2015 © Mary Jane Agra​. All rights reserved