Above: Featuring 2010 Miss Universe 4th runner-up Venus Raj
Above: Creative Directing, Make-up & Hairstyling work
by Mary Jane Agra
Kiss winter’s heavy layers goodbye sweet summer child. Spring-cleaning’s ticked off your to-do list, so by layers – we mean the ‘fuss’ in your makeup routine. This season favors a soft approach to beauty over bold makeup.
Lighten up your beauty routine, and ditch the heavy liners and lashes - or simply tuck them in your drawer for another day. This season is all about achieving a healthy and all-natural glow that only takes a few minutes to pull off.
Summer gets golden with sun-kissed skin, flushed cheeks, and warm tones. This skincare season, a radiant complexion is right on trend! “It‘s more about transparency and the resurfacing of the face,” says Terry Barber, MAC’s Director of Artistry. “There's a return to femininity - health and sportiness were the two words that artists used everywhere backstage," as he recalls from shows in New York, Paris, Milan, and London.
In New York, the models at Michael Kors exuded an all-American girl persona with their bronzed and just-back-from-the-beach glow. "The girl looks very healthy, alive, and animated because Michael really likes that kind of energy,” says Makeup Artist Dick Page. He drew attention to the tone and structure of the models’ faces by dusting bronzer along the hairline from temple to temple for warmth and definition, and then accenting the cheeks with a slightly rosier shade. Lastly, he dabbed on MAC’s Eye Shadow in Brule on fair-skinned models and a brown-gold hue for deeper complexions to camouflage any dark circles around the eyes.
Meanwhile on the runways in Paris at Isabel Marant, eyes were on the uncomplicated French Chic, the very embodiment of Parisian cool who the designer speaks of as “the girl who has come back from vacation and has highlights…The model, who has frequently been spotted at work and play since completing her photography studies.’” Makeup Artist Christelle Cocquet took to task in creating an effortless glow - by concentrated layering of MAC’s copper-tinged Lustre Drops and a highlighter. She then rendered complexions luminous with a sheered-out foundation and a light sweep of neutral blush along the apples of the cheeks.
In Milan, the epitome of a Sicilian woman, inspired by Sicily’s ancient Greek history and Sophia Loren’s boundless sensuality, graced the runways at Dolce & Gabbana. "Even though it's soft, romantic, and cherubic, it's still Sophia Loren - but this time she's in a Greek theater and it's sunny and hot," said Makeup Artist Pat McGrath of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's eternal muse. For an instant glow, McGrath applied a shade of foundation warmer than the model's skin tone, and then dusted blush powder to the cheeks, chin and forehead. For a more golden effect, she applied a blend of eye shadow in yellow and rose-gold hues across the lids, with a deeper beige blended into the crease and rimmed along the lower lash lines. Then, she drew a tiny wing on the outer corners of the eye for the ultimate Sophia Loren look.
Meanwhile, the influence of South America, namely Peru, and Southern Italy were explored on the runways of Alberta Ferretti with folkloric notes echoing across the collection. Makeup Artist Lucia Pieroni achieved both a whimsical and fresh beauty look by applying MAC Pro Paint Pot in Groundwork across the nose, forehead, cheeks and chin, and then dusting Casual Cheek and Lip Colour in Have A Lovely Day! onto cheeks for a rosy flush.
by Mary Jane Agra
Add sophistication to your eyes with the ultimate metallic. At Donna Karan, it was all about that seventies-style glow with sun-kissed beauties channeling glamorous boho-chic - as inspired by original supermodels Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton. Face painter Charlotte Tilbury brightens up the eyes with a wash of bronze-gold cream shadow. For a subtle sweep, opt for a lighter golden shade and blend it outwards and towards the eyebrows.
At Jason Wu, Lancôme makeup artist Diana Kendal created a softer, half-moon-shaped cat eye and accented the eyes with warm rose gold glitter for a metallic effect. At Aigner, lips were given a regal shimmer with a jewel-toned lipstick. Whether alone or layered on top of a matte shade, gold is a sure way to add dimension and shine the spotlight on your lips.
Take it up a NOTCH!
With a new approach to colour, why not experiment with texture while you’re at it! Look natural and effortless with bold matte lips. Its high pigment and long-lasting colour tops the list of designer favourites on the Spring/Summer 2014 runways.
Think matte is underwhelming in the moisture department? Keep your lips hydrated and fake the plumping effect with a creamy texture, or go glossy for a shiny glass-like effect on the lips.
Take center stage and create the illusion of fuller, luscious lips with a shimmery finish. Plus, glimmering lips are most flattering underneath artificial light.
At Ralph Lauren, Guido Palau brought Upper East Side to the runways with a glossy and slightly off-center parting. Meanwhile at Helmut Lang, Paul Hanlon kept the hair less street and more groomed with a sleek side parting. For more polish, Hanlon neatly tucked hair behind the ears and secured it with a loose and low ponytail.
by Mary Jane Agra
Throwback to 1950’s summer and add a pop of colour to your beauty arsenal with candy-colored lip shades. Barefaced beauties with ultra-bright pouts give au naturel a modern interpretation. Candy pink, lilac, and orange are the key colour players this season.
It’s a Barbie world with Irving Penn-inspired pouts in pastel pink at Prabal Gurung. Doll up your pout by first slightly drawing outside of the mouth with a lip pencil. If you’re a makeup master like Charlotte Tilbury, fill it in with a custom-blend shade of Pepto Pink. If not, join the party and take your pick of these cotton-candy lip shades.
Rumor has it that purple dethroned pink. All eyes were on the neon lilac-painted lips at Prabal Gurung and Peter Pilotto. At Prabal Gurung, Charlotte Tilbury used a custom-blended shade of acidic lilac using various combinations of MAC’s Lipmix collection. A trick to pull this off is to first contour the lips with a lip pencil for richer colour coverage and to avoid feathering.
ORANGE YOU GLAD
For lips that speak louder than words, freshen up with tangerine orange. Its no surprise practically every top designer favored this caution-cone-colour for this season’s beauty looks. This zesty hue complements all skin tones and hair colours. Rich, burnt orange hues suit darker complexions, while softer orange colours with peach undertones flatter lighter complexions. Plus, orange lips add spice to a muted ensemble.
by Mary Jane Agra
Super silky straight hair is back in vogue! Summer curls and bouncy waves are lost in the shuffle of trends. This season, super-straight strands can stand alone as a statement piece.
CENTER OF ATTENTION
At Chloé, James Pecis’ straightened hair and preppy centered partings gave us a clear picture of the “intellectual Chloé girl with healthy, expensive hair." The hairstylist flat-ironed hair and drew a hard, clean line right in the middle of the head using the pointed tip of a rattail comb and then held it in place with hairspray. At Max Mara, it’s a double take on precise center partings except Luigi Murenu flattened down the hair and tucked it behind the models’ ears for a slicker modern look.
The creative genius in Eugene Souleiman’s hair creations gave the understated hair trend a whole tier of sophistication – with the meticulous use of graphic accessories. At Donna Karan, Souleiman devised a section from the forehead to the crown and snapped a metal barrette into place. Then, he smoothed the hair against the head with a small bristle brush and blow dryer, whilst dousing layers with hair spray. At Elie Saab, the perfectly streamlined hair was held in place by a gold hairband that was woven over and under the hair.
ACCENT is a monthly publication for the fashion and culture obsessed. We are a Toronto-based, independent company with a strong focus on the growing Asian market in Canada.